Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25: The Rolf Ekroth AW25 Collection

Rolf Ekroth AW25 | ©Copenhagen Fashion Week

Event: Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25
IG: @cphfw
Brand: Rolf Ekroth
IG: rolf_ekroth
First published: 29th January 2025 at 11:00 AM GMT.

Rolf Ekroth, the Finnish-Swedish designer has one of fashion's most unusual backstories.

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About Rolf Ekroth

Rolf Ekroth, the Finnish-Swedish designer has one of fashion's most unusual backstories. While most of his friends opted to study business after high school, this contrarian decided to show them up by studying social work. A few years in, Ekroth realized the field wasn't for him.He segued into sales and by 2004 when online poker hit Finland it became his obsession. After struggling with poker for a few years he figured out that his emotional nature wasn't really suited to the game and he managed to quit. After taking a few months off, he was once again adrift when out of the blue a friend who had noted Ekroth's interest in clothing, suggested Ekroth try fashion. And he did. Since graduating from Helsinki's Aalto University in 2015, Ekroth has done several collaborative projects, was a finalist at the Hyères Festival, and won the Designers' Nest competition. He relaunched his namesake label independently in 2020 during the pandemic.

Rolf Ekroth is a sustainable fashion brand that creates gender neutral clothing designed to fit various body types, promoting inclusivity while reducing waste. The brand prioritizes using sustainable materials, with 80% sourced from deadstock or recycled sources like recycled bottles. All garments are made in Finland and the Baltic countries, where ethical working conditions and fair pay are ensured. Rolf Ekroth also incorporates some zero waste designs into the collections, seeking to minimize waste at every stage of production. Rolf Ekroth values sustainability in collaborations, such as launching Bio2X, a straw-based textile made from biomass surplus, and creating a collection from waste resources with Blue Sky Lab. Rolf Ekroth ensures that all the fabrics are of high quality, long-lasting, and easy to use. With their strong commitment to sustainability, Rolf Ekroth is leading the way in creating clothing that is both fashionable and environmentally responsible..

Rolf Ekroth AW25

NO DISTANCE LEFT TO RUN

This collection is a reflection of endurance—not just through the endless northern winters but through the creative process itself. For Fall/Winter 2025, No Distance Left to Run draws inspiration from the harsh realities of surviving winters in the north. During the darkest months, when the sun can vanish for weeks or even months, we become involuntary sun worshipers, finding our own ways to cope with the endless nights. Running has always been therapeutic for me, so not being able to do it this year has been tough. Channeling that into this season’s theme, however, felt fitting. Each collection is like a continuous race against time—you’re running out of money and time every season. But we survive, and we advance.

This season was the perfect moment to evolve key pieces from past collections, starting with the outerwear. Coats and jackets have been reworked with new zig-zag cuts and patterns that evoke the worn-out aesthetic of exercise clothes while also serving as a nod to the sun worshiping that defines life in the north. One standout piece, the sleeping bag dress, perfectly embodies the survivalist theme. It functions both as an actual sleeping bag and as a padded dress—merging practicality with creativity.

Track pants are another focal point this season, with over 15 variations crafted from just two base patterns. These pieces explore an unexpected mix of fabrics, including padded nylons, boiled wools, and shirting cottons, offering endless opportunities for remixing and layering. Designed to work cohesively, the collection invites personal styling choices while maintaining a sense of unity.

Two hand-painted watercolor patterns run through the designs, bringing themes of the polar night and the longing for light to life. These mystical, child-like sun creatures nod playfully to the Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness album cover by The Smashing Pumpkins. Created in collaboration with Matilda Diletta and her sister Emanuela Leppäkoski, the prints add an imaginative touch that feels both fresh and deeply personal.

The collection also builds on traditional craftsmanship with the introduction of special bead weaving patches, adding intricate handworked details to the designs. Subtle nods to rope knotting and floral motifs—now rendered in black—serve as quiet echoes of past seasons, reinterpreted through a darker, more introspective lens.

THE MEANING BEHIND THE TITLE: NO DISTANCE TO RUN

The title reflects the cycles I’ve been navigating in fashion over the past few seasons. It symbolizes those moments when progress feels stalled, the work becomes heavy, and hope seems distant. But inevitably, something sparks—a fresh idea, a positive moment—and you gather yourself and start again. This season marks that turning point.

While previous collections leaned heavily on nostalgia, No Distance Left to Run looks ahead, focusing on innovation and craftsmanship. Each piece is rooted in resilience—finding new strength and resources in the process of moving forward.

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